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The Most Scenic Drives in Ireland

Photo credit: Chris Hill
Photo credit: Chris Hill

From Car and Driver

It's no secret that the landscape and people of Ireland are endlessly varied and charming. So much beauty packed into one little corner of the earth seems unfair-but hey, that's the luck of the Irish for you.

Equally entrancing are the roads that traverse Ireland's roll-shouldered mountains, diverse countryside, and craggy coasts. Forget those efficient autobahns or endless interstates; each of the below routes weaves a story like the most talented storyteller, inviting you to share in the magic. Here are 9 of the most scenic drives, plus where to stop along them.

Northern Ireland is home to some of the island's greatest motorsports heroes, like Belfast-born rally legend Paddy Hopkirk. Follow in his footsteps along the 120 mile Causeway Coastal Route and find out why this piece of Northern Ireland couldn't help but breed drivers who knew their way around a corner or two.

Starting out from Belfast, head northeast towards the Islandmagee peninsula, home to steep basalt cliffs and wheeling seabirds. Next, head north to Larne, the gateway to the Glens of Antrim.

Photo credit: Christopher Hill
Photo credit: Christopher Hill

The nine glens each have their own flavor, whether it's the castle gardens at Glenarm, the forest waterfalls of Glenariff Park, or the beach at Cushendun. Detour off the main coastal route here to Torr Head; on a clear day, you can see across the water to Scotland.

Photo credit: Chris Hill
Photo credit: Chris Hill

Westward takes you toward the basaltic columns of the Giant's Causeway and the Old Bushmills Distillery, founded in 1608. Unexpected wonders abound, like the wild ruins of Dunluce Castle just east of Bushmills. Round the corner at Portstewart to see Irish surfers plying the waves of the Atlantic off sandy beaches.

A quick detour around the mouth of the River Bann takes you along those beaches to Downhill, where an 18th-century replica of an Italian temple sits on the cliffs. Heading south, end in Derry/Londonderry, a walled and ancient city filled with history.

Northern Ireland is a frequent stand-in for Westeros, the mythical setting of HBO's Game of Thrones. The best way to explore this route is to let your imagination drive as you meander through the Seven Kingdoms.

Photo credit: Brian Morrison
Photo credit: Brian Morrison

Head south from Belfast towards Newcastle. You can stop to stretch your legs at Tollymore Forest Park, where the White Walkers first roamed. From here, head east to skirt the coast, looping around to Castle Ward opposite the bay from Strangford. You'll immediately recognize it as Winterfell, home of the Starks.

Take the ferry across to Portaferry, then head southeast towards Quintin Bay Road. This pleasant little bay is overlooked by Quintin Castle, though its sands may occasionally be strolled by scheming Lannisters. Follow the coastal roads up north around the peninsula to Bangor for a dose of real scenery to match the fiction.

Photo credit: Brian Morrison
Photo credit: Brian Morrison

On day two, head for the Glens of Antrim again, but not before stopping in at Ballymoney to pay homage to Ireland's greatest motorcycling hero, Joey Dunlop. The fallen hero sits astride his bike in a memorial garden, built to honor the King of the Roads.

Just to the east lies Slemish Mountain, the grassy lands beneath it home to the fictional Dothraki hordes and the doomed Khal Drogo. Keep going and you'll find yourself in the Antrim plateau, a backdrop used to play the neck in the north.

Photo credit: Matthew Woodhouse
Photo credit: Matthew Woodhouse

Reimagined for Game of Thrones, Antrim's coast is a flurry of images. The Cushendun Caves are the birthplace of shadowy demons. Murlough Bay is filled with slavers. Ballintoy Harbour is the setting for Pyke, home of the Ironborn. Stringing them all together takes you along the ocean again, on some of the best roads in the island.

Northern Ireland isn't all rocky coasts and film locations. South from Derry/Londonderry are the Sperrin Mountains, the gateway to Fermanagh's Lakelands. Mountains, forests, and copper-hued bogs all await the intrepid explorer here, as well as roads that twist up the hillsides or beneath leafy canopies.

Photo credit: Design Pics/The Irish Image Collection
Photo credit: Design Pics/The Irish Image Collection

Beginning in Derry/Londonderry, head south towards Strabane. The main route continues along the Mourne River, on through to Newton Stewart. Here's where you have a decision to make.

There are four main scenic routes through the Sperrins, each one well-signposted. One circuit takes you counterclockwise through Castlederg, Drumquin, and Omagh. The central route loops eastward from Gortin down to Carrickmore, up to Sperrin itself, then back to Strabane. The drive includes ancient stone circles, dolmens, and even a medieval Ogham stone to stop and explore.

Photo credit: Design Pics/Peter Zoeller
Photo credit: Design Pics/Peter Zoeller

Or, skip the routebook and link up Gortin, Sperrin, and then on to drive up to the top of Slieve Gallion. Then, head for Feeney, crossing through the Banagher Forest, and due south to Cranagh. Go east back to Newton Stewart, and you'll have completed a circuit of the best of the Sperrins, with enough time left over to head down toward Enniskillen, the jewel of Northern Ireland's lakelands, via Castlederg.

From Dublin, drive straight into the Wicklow Mountains on the spectacular R115, headed for Sally Gap. This route takes you right into the national park, out of the city's vibrant bustle and into Ireland's greenery.

Photo credit: Tourism Ireland
Photo credit: Tourism Ireland

At Sally Gap, head east towards the Lough Tay overlook. One of the most photographed spots in Ireland, the lake is nestled inside a valley, and, depending on the light, resembles a vast pint of Guinness.

Double back and on down the R115 to Glendalough, where Viking raids forced medieval monks to build their impregnable round towers. Many of the monastic city's stone structures still stand.

Photo credit: Chris Hill
Photo credit: Chris Hill

From here, the southernmost tip of the route touches Avoca, home to Ireland's oldest working wollen mill and famous for its copper mines. Once you've taken that all in, the main route will lead you back to Dublin. Stop at the Powerscourt Estate for a look at its stunning gardens, then make one final stop at Johnnie Fox's, the highest pub in Ireland. It sits nestled in the Wicklow Mountains at Glencullen, and is the ideal place to toast your day's travel.

Buried in the Boyne Valley is Ireland's most ancient history, much of it dating back to before the Pyramids or Stonehenge. It's a quick sprint out of Dublin up the M1 to Drogheda; when you exit the motorway, you leave the modern world behind.

Photo credit: Caspar Diederik/@storytravelers
Photo credit: Caspar Diederik/@storytravelers

Head east towards Newgrange and its ancient passage tomb. Construction of the colossal mounds began around 3500BC, making them some of the oldest man-made structures in the world. From here, head east beside the Boyne River to the Hill of Slane, where St. Patrick legendarily lit his bonfire in defiance of the pagan king.

To the south is the Hill of Tara, the traditional seat of the high king of Ireland. Atop the hill stands the Lia Faíl, the stone of destiny. It's said to roar when the true king of Ireland touches it-so go ahead and try your luck.

Photo credit: Tony Pleavin
Photo credit: Tony Pleavin

Up the valley to the east is Trim Castle, a 12th-century relic of Ireland's Anglo-Norman occupation. It's very well-preserved (and was used in the filming of Braveheart). From here, take the wriggly R154 towards the Loughcrew Cairns, structures even more ancient than those at Newgrange.

Last, a stop at Kells-birthplace of the eponymous illustrated manuscript-and another at the Battle of the Boyne visitor's centre, the site of the battle between deposed King James II and William of Orange.

The coastal area between Wexford and Dungarvan is ideal for a leisurely, slower drive, with plenty of stops-at coves, sandy beaches, and tidal pools-to make along the way. Be sure to make one of those the Copper Coast in Waterford Country, named for its copper mining past in the 19th century.

Photo credit: Luke Myers
Photo credit: Luke Myers

Starting in Wexford, make a stop at Curracloe Beach (which you might recognize from the opening scene from Saving Private Ryan), and then head south to Kilmore Quay. From here, turn west and start to wend your way along the coastline.

At the Hook Head lighthouse-which is the oldest in all of Europe-you'll discover the origins behind the saying, “by Hook or by Crook.” In Kilmokea, you'll find a country manor and gardens. Stay for the night or just take a tour before you head south towards Tramore from Waterford and rejoin the ocean. You'll find sandy beaches at Arnestown and Bunmahon.

Photo credit: Fáilte Ireland
Photo credit: Fáilte Ireland

Dungarvan itself is a bustling town, featuring its own castle and a walkable city center. You'll find this part of Ireland sunniest in disposition-both in regards to the weather and the people.

Ireland's main population centres congregate in the east, with Dublin and Belfast linked by fast-moving motorways. The further west you go, the wilder things get, until you butt right up against the savage beauty of the Atlantic.

The full 1500-mile drive that skirts this frontier of rock and spray is called the Wild Atlantic Way. There are six routes in total, and the best way to experience this area is to pick a few, go slow, and take it all in (as opposed to trying to cram in all six).

Progress is slow on the narrow, spectacular coastal roads, and there's no sense in rushing the scenery, so break off a section and dive in.

Photo credit: Lukasz Warzecha
Photo credit: Lukasz Warzecha

In the Northern Headlands, there's no better place to begin than Malin Head, the most northerly place in Ireland. The coast is jagged and rocky, its headland splintered by the crashing waves, and the natural beauty is jaw-dropping in expanse. Plus, it's largely empty of tourists.

Photo credit: Chris Hill
Photo credit: Chris Hill

Loop west around Drongawn Lough towards the equally wind-blasted Fanad Head, but not before stopping in at Ballymastocker Beach, once voted the second-most beautiful beach in the world.

From Fanad Head to Donegal will take you the best part of a day around the coast, but it's a day well spent. Stop in at the Slieve League Cliffs on your way, rising nearly 2000 feet above the water.

From the Slieve Cliffs you can see south to the Sligo Mountains, and on to the headlands around Ballycastle. Far less travelled than the popular Ring of Kerry, this circuit of bays and islands makes for a varied journey of countless discoveries.

Photo credit: Chris Hill
Photo credit: Chris Hill

Begin in Sligo, the childhood inspiration for so much of W.B. Yeats' poetry, then loop up to Ballycastle via the sideroads. The added distance is well worth the trip.

From here, rejoin the main road at Bangor Erris, then turn west at Mulranny towards Achill Island. Take the bridge across and head to The Blueway, a beautiful network of water trails along the coasts of Doogort and Keem that offer kayaking and snorkeling

Photo credit: Fáilte Ireland
Photo credit: Fáilte Ireland

Circling back takes you through the charming and lively towns of Newport and Westport, filled with colorful streetscapes and pubs well worth a pit-stop. From here, head west towards Killadoon before dropping down towards Connemara and its picturesque capital of Clifden. From here, the R134 and R340 loop endlessly through rocky shores and grasslands with herds of cattle. End your journey in Galway, but take your time getting there.

Another route to consider is a drive to what's universally considered to be the very best on the island-at least certainly by its inhabitants. The people of Cork have a uniquely musical accent and a uniquely satisfied attitude about their home. And why wouldn't they? It's Cork.

Photo credit: Brian Morrison
Photo credit: Brian Morrison

Getting there via the main roads is going about it all wrong. Instead, begin your journey in Killarney, overlooking Lough Leane. South on the N71 takes you through some gorgeous roads and touches at Moll's Gap, a well-loved stage on Ireland's rallying circuit.

From here its south to Kenmare, and then away from the main road and towards Lamb's Head on the border of County Cork and County Kerry . Further, the Ring of Beara, as this peninsula is known, is every bit as spectacular as the Ring of Kerry.

Photo credit: Arthur Ward
Photo credit: Arthur Ward

Turning around at Lamb's Head, head east towards Glengarriff, then south to Ballydehob and into County Cork. The out-and-back journey to Baltimore is worth the detour before you get to Skibbereen. Skibbereen is the hub for West Cork, but nearly every village you pass through is a delightful array of brightly colored shopfronts.

From here, it's a relatively straight route to Cork city itself. First, though, make a detour at Clonakilty and touch off at Kinsale Head. Marked by a lighthouse, Old Kinsale Head provides one more glimpse of the Atlantic before you head into the city to eat and enjoy some of that famed Cork craic.

For more info on each route and the landmarks along the way, head to Ireland.com.

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