With the theatrical release on Friday of Chasing Mavericks, surfers and surf culture will once again get the Hollywood treatment. Hardly has a sport been more commercialized, glamorized and misunderstood.
To catch a glimpse of the real essence of surfing, one need not look much farther than a Surfers’ Blood, a beautiful monograph published just recently by accomplished photographer and filmmaker Patrick Trefz, a 10-year staff shooter at Surfer magazine.
German-born Trefz, who now lives in Santa Cruz, Calif. – the setting for Chasing Mavericks and its fictionalized account of the relationship between young Jay Moriarity and his big-wave mentor, Frosty Hesson – captures the soul of surfing in a way that movie studios rarely get right. His images, curated from years of traveling the globe documenting surfers and their pursuits, evoke both the thrill and meditative beauty of the sport.
Y! Travel has chosen 10 images from Surfers’ Blood that beautifully capture the deep pull that “sense of place” exerts on a surfer, and how the pursuit of a perfect wave drives them to all corners of the globe.
Five Miles Up with ... Jonny Weston, star of Chasing Mavericks
Santa Cruz, Calif., surfer Josh Mulcoy is tucked inside the barrel at a remote Northern California break.
The infamous Teahupoo in Tahiti, a thrilling but dangerous wave due to the way it breaks across a shallow coral reef.
Surfer Ramon Navarro warms up with mate tea in Buchuporeo, Sourthern Chile.
Shipwrecks, an out-of-the-way surf spot on the Pacific Coast of Baja Norte, Mexico.
Surfing at the Santa Cruz Harbor is technically illegal – which rarely keeps the hard-core away.
The Eisbach ("ice brook") in Munich, Germany, is a small man-made river in Munich created as a tributary of the Isar River, where a man-made wave has been created on one section.
Rob Machado tickles the lip of a wave somewhere in Costa Rica.
Masaisah Alani, on one of Hawaii's outer islands.
Mundaka, Spain, is one of the best waves in the world when all the right conditions come together.