When I met Emperor Ashoka in Sannathi

There is something special about rustic India, where almost every experience is a romance in itself. I am travelling down from Yadagiri, a small town in north Karnataka towards Kanaganahalli in Sannathi, a nondescript village on the banks of the Bheema River. My interest in the small hamlet is courtesy Emperor Ashoka of the Maurya dynasty, who left his mark here several centuries ago. It is believed that the emperor sent his son Mahinda and daughter Sanghamitra as his emissaries to spread Buddhism in this region. The remains of a Buddhist stupa were excavated here by the Archaeological Survey of India almost two decades ago.

The story begins with the discovery of an Ashokan edict. Kailash Rao, Associate Professor and conservation architect from Manipal University, who is consulting with the ASI in restoring the stupa, tells me that the edict was found in the neighbouring Chandralamba Temple when the roof collapsed and shattered the idol of the old deity. I see the edict placed right at the entrance in Sannathi. Written in Brahmi script and in the Prakrit language, it speaks of religious tolerance.

There are many panels of sculptures carved in limestone and strewn about the place. The Maha Stupa, also referred to as Adholoka Maha Chaitya or the Great Stupa of the Netherworld, dates from around the 3rd century BC to the 3rd century AD. The original stupa would have probably been built during the Ashokan period as some pottery shards were discovered here as well. While some parts of the Ashokan stupa are still intact, the architecture of the later Satavahana period stands out distinctly.

The site is a treasure trove and the most priceless treasure belongs to Ashoka himself. I see a broken portrait of a king with his queens gently pieced together by archaeologists. It lies away from the main stupa beneath the shelter of a tree. This, I am told, is the very first inscribed panel of King Ashoka to be discovered in India. “We wouldn’t know if there were any before, but this is the first we saw with an inscription that says Raya Ashoka,” says Professor Kailash Rao.

The sun’s rays fall directly on the drums and the larger-than-life panels are arranged circularly around them. Stories and events from Gautama Buddha’s life – his birth and his first sermon -- portraits of more kings and queens from the Satavahana period, vignettes from the Jataka Tales, mythical creatures, ancient cities, and stupas like Varanasi and Sanchi are carved in both the drum and dome panels made of limestone.

Several life size statues of Buddha were discovered, including the four that are normally placed on ayaka platforms and represent the cardinal directions. This stupa was built largely in the Mahayana period, where Buddha was depicted in the human form, unlike the Hinayana era when he was symbolically shown. However, even here you can see symbolic images such as the Bodhi tree, his feet, and an empty throne.

There is more to this ancient site than just Ashoka. Professor Kailash Rao says that there were several discoveries here that would also take you back to prehistoric times. Besides the stupa, bangles, beads, pottery, bricks, tiles, stone-heads and earthen vessels were found here.

The conservation of the stupa is in progress and pains have been taken to restore it as scientifically as possible. The challenge, the professor says, is to maintain a balance between recreating it and retaining its authenticity. Meanwhile, a shelter has been proposed to protect these carvings from nature with a multimedia panel that will explain the Jataka Tales.

A group of school children from the neighbouring village visit Sannathi with their teachers and see history in the making, right before their eyes. It is only a question of time before the stupa puts Sannathi on the world map of history.