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Vitelli RTW Spring 2022

·2 min read

Daring, experimental and multilayered are thoughts that came to mind at the first Vitelli runway show. Mauro Simionato established the knitwear brand in 2016 and has since drawn a collective of creative artisans, all of whom believe in a slower approach to fashion, including supplying upcycled fabrics, scraps and yarns to develop textiles at the Organic Knitting Theater, the brand’s material R&D center.

The look: Inspired by the journeys of spiritual wanderers across the “Overland” route — also known as the “Hippie trail” — in the 1960s and 1970s, the collective utilized every knitting technique one can think of for this arty crafty collection. Bulbous and often shapeless looks, with caftan-like vests, tight tops and ribbed pajama pants, as well as twisted tops and sweaters, were multilayered in more ways than one. Not only were different patterns juxtaposed for a clashing effect, but the abundance of textured surfaces on each look, if not each piece, was extreme.

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Quote of note: “We are native-fluid and responsible. We stand for a decolonized, cross-cultural future. We are the multiethnic punks of Italian couture,” the collective proclaimed in the show notes.

Key pieces: A gauge see-through sweater with elongated sleeves paired with textured flared pants was languid and sensual; blazers and shirtdresses embroidered with wool yarns in a rainbow color palette that appeared to be inspired by Jackson Pollock paintings; patchwork strapless dresses, twisted and crumpled with scraps of fabrics snaking over the bodice; crochet Bermuda shorts with floral pattern.

Takeaway: Simionato and the Vitelli collective are rising stars in the Milanese fashion scene, and their talent is indisputable. Their urge to prove it with such a multifaceted collection wasn’t necessary, but they’ll surely learn that editing can benefit the outcome.

Launch Gallery: Vitelli RTW Spring 2022

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