For spring, Vincenzo Palazzo showed his softer side. While the world was grappling with the pandemic, he explored the heartache caused by love, as portrayed by the restless woman with smudged mascara starring in the video he released to introduce the collection. Yet there was no sign of hysteria in this balanced and controlled lineup, in which he repeated a floral print on frocks and revisited tailoring through lightweight fabrics and airy silhouettes.
The look: Palazzo veered toward a more feminine aesthetic through draping, macro flower motifs and a color palette of lilac, mint and turmeric yellow. These elements were wisely balanced by the geometric lines of pleated column dresses and deconstructed sartorial pieces rendered in classic black and white.
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Quote of note: “Have pity, Lord, on those who love and are separated.” Not a quote by Palazzo, the sentence by none other than Albert Camus opened the video and evoked the overall mood of the presentation.
Key pieces: Ankle-length sleeveless frocks splashed with the floral print in two colors and pleated column dresses to layer over bikini bras and roomy, pleated pants. A voluminous, ruffled tulle skirt also stood up but felt misplaced next to the other looks.
Takeaway: Although filled with commercially smart pieces, the collection lacked some sparks, as Palazzo could have pushed the creative envelope a little further in his designs. In fashion as in romance, nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Launch Gallery: Vìen RTW Spring 2022